New Year's Day元日
The most important holiday of the year. Families gather over osechi ryori, children receive otoshidama money envelopes, and the whole country slows down for the first days of January.
Japan moves to a calendar of its own — blossom fronts and fire festivals, fruit seasons and temple bells. Scroll through the twelve months to see what's happening when, where it happens first, and what to eat while you're there.
The most important holiday of the year. Families gather over osechi ryori, children receive otoshidama money envelopes, and the whole country slows down for the first days of January.
The lacquered-box New Year feast, where every dish carries a wish — prosperity, health, fertility. Ordered from depachika and restaurants as early as October; the premium boxes run past ¥50,000 and sell out by November.
The first shrine or temple visit of the new year. Millions queue at places like Meiji Jingu and Fushimi Inari to pray for good fortune, draw omikuji fortunes, and buy fresh lucky charms.
A two-day university relay race from Tokyo to Hakone and back, watched on TV in living rooms across the country — as much a New Year tradition as the food.
Fields of yellow nanohana are the first big colour of the year — at Azumayama Park in Kanagawa they bloom from January with Mt. Fuji in the background. The yellow wave then climbs the country until it reaches Hokkaido in May.
Rice porridge with seven spring herbs, eaten on January 7 to settle the stomach after a week of New Year feasting. Supermarkets sell pre-packaged seven-herb kits in early January, and konbini stock ready-made bowls.
Cities celebrate everyone turning twenty with ceremonies, and the streets fill with young people in their finest traditional dress.
The eve of spring by the old calendar. People throw roasted soybeans to drive out demons — "oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi!" — and eat an uncut ehomaki sushi roll facing the year's lucky direction. Supermarkets and konbini push ehomaki hard in early February.
Pink mochi wrapped in a salted cherry leaf, and pastel rice puffs for Girls' Day — wagashi shops and supermarkets fill with both in the run-up to Hinamatsuri on March 3.
Tsubaki bloom while everything else sleeps, dropping their flowers whole onto temple moss. Around Tokyo the camellia garden at Musashi Kyuryo National Government Park (Saitama) peaks February–March — but somewhere in Japan a camellia is open almost all year round.
Hokkaido's winter showpiece: enormous snow sculptures along Odori Park, ice bars, and night illuminations in the crisp northern cold.
Marks the legendary founding of Japan by Emperor Jimmu in 660 BC. A quiet holiday — flags out, most things open.
In Japan, women give the chocolate — honmei-choco for someone special, giri-choco out of obligation for colleagues. Men return the favour a month later on White Day.
Ume bloom while it is still cold — the fragrant overture to hanami season. Kairakuen in Mito (Ibaraki), one of Japan's three great gardens, holds the most famous plum festival with three thousand trees.
The birthday of the reigning emperor. The Imperial Palace in Tokyo opens its inner grounds for public well-wishing.
Doll Festival, or Girls' Day. Families display tiered hina doll sets and eat chirashi-zushi and sweet hina-arare to wish daughters health and happiness.
Takenoko are dug the moment they break ground and cooked the same day. Spring menus everywhere turn to takenoko gohan (bamboo-shoot rice) and wakatake-ni, simmered with fresh wakame.
The answer to Valentine's Day: a month later, men return the favour with chocolate and gifts of their own.
The cherry blossom front sweeps the country south to north, and for two fleeting weeks everything happens under the trees: hanami picnics, blue tarps, night-time yozakura illuminations. Ueno Park in Tokyo is the classic crowd scene. The defining image of spring in Japan.
Momo bloom a deeper, warmer pink than the cherries they briefly overlap with. Koga Kubo Park (Ibaraki) holds one of Kanto's biggest peach-blossom festivals in mid–late March.
Day and night in balance. Families visit graves during the surrounding higan week and eat botamochi rice cakes.
Tulip fields with windmills are a small Dutch fantasy inside spring in Japan — Sakura Furusato Square in Chiba plants seventy varieties beneath a real one.
Foraged wild vegetables — fuki, warabi, zenmai, kogomi, and taranome fried as tempura. Mountain-village restaurants, ryokan and soba shops serve them through spring; it's the flavour of rural Japan waking up.
The first bonito run of the year has been celebrated since Edo times. Sushi shops and izakaya advertise hatsu-gatsuo proudly, traditionally seared and sliced as tataki.
Tsutsuji bloom in dense, almost artificial-looking mounds of pink, red and white. Nezu Shrine in Tokyo stages the classic display — three thousand bushes below a hillside of torii gates.
Whole hillsides turn sky-blue with baby blue eyes — most famously the rolling fields of Hitachi Seaside Park in Ibaraki, where five million flowers blur into the horizon.
Shibazakura — "lawn cherry blossom" — carpets entire slopes in pink and magenta just as the real sakura fall. The hill at Hitsujiyama Park in Chichibu (Saitama) is the famous patchwork view.
Cascading purple tunnels and hundred-year-old trellises. Ashikaga Flower Park (Tochigi) is the iconic sight — its great wisteria is floodlit at night and draws visitors from around the world.
The Children's Day sweets: mochi wrapped in an oak leaf in the east, sticky rice in bamboo leaf in the west. Wagashi shops sell them from late April until May 5.
Four national holidays in seven days make Japan's biggest travel period. Trains and hotels book out months ahead; prices spike everywhere. Wonderful atmosphere — plan around it or book very early.
Birthday of the Showa Emperor and the opening day of Golden Week — the moment half the country starts travelling.
Commemorates the postwar constitution of 1947. The middle pillar of Golden Week.
A day for nature. Many public gardens and zoos open free of charge.
Japan's rose gardens hit their first and biggest bloom in May. Keisei Rose Garden in Chiba — ten thousand plants, sixteen hundred varieties — is the Kanto benchmark.
Japan's luxury fruit, sweet enough to be given as a formal gift. Look for retro melon cream sodas, melon-pan in seasonal flavours, and depachika parfaits served in half a melon shell.
Koinobori carp streamers swim over rivers and rooftops for children's health and success; families bathe in iris leaves and eat kashiwa-mochi. Golden Week's closing day.
Biwa appear briefly in early summer, mostly as glossy gift fruit in depachika food halls. Keep an eye out for biwa kanten jelly and the occasional loquat tart.
Tokyo's rowdiest shrine festivals, a week apart: hundreds of mikoshi portable shrines shouldered through Kanda and Asakusa. Sanja Matsuri alone draws nearly two million people.
Ajisai bloom blue, purple and pink in the rain — the flower of tsuyu. Meigetsuin in Kamakura, the "hydrangea temple", is so popular its blue-lined steps get queues at opening time.
A month of soft, humid rain that turns everything deep green. Fewer crowds, moody temple gardens, hydrangeas at their best — pack an umbrella and lean into it.
Hanashobu line water gardens in whites and purples through the early rainy season. Suigo Sawara Ayame Park in Chiba shows them the classic way — from a wooden boat poled through the canals.
Glossy Sato Nishiki cherries arrive in jewel-box gift packs at depachika. Patisseries follow with cherry parfaits, tarts and clafoutis for a short midsummer window.
Suika is summer itself — chilled wedges at the beach, watermelon-splitting games, suika kakigori, and limited-edition watermelon drinks everywhere.
The iconic summer river fish, salt-grilled whole over charcoal at riverside restaurants and ryokan. Most associated with the Nagara, Tama and Kamo rivers.
Shaved ice in strawberry, matcha, melon or lemon — from festival stalls to refined tea houses. The premium versions use slow-frozen natural ice and fresh seasonal fruit syrups.
The classic summer izakaya pairing. Rooftop beer gardens open across Japan from late May and stay packed through the humid months.
Yuri bloom by the hundred thousand in early summer — Tokorozawa Lily Park (Saitama) fills a forest floor with them in mid–late June.
Hasu open at dawn and close by noon, so lotus ponds are an early-riser's reward. Kodai-hasu-no-Sato in Gyoda (Saitama) grows ancient lotus revived from 1,400-year-old seeds.
White peaches are the headline summer fruit — whole-peach parfaits at depachika and luxury fruit parlours like Senbikiya, peach daifuku, peach sando, and momo kakigori at the peak in July–August.
Furano's purple rows at Farm Tomita are Hokkaido's summer postcard — cool air, rolling hills, lavender soft-serve.
Kyoto's thousand-year-old festival fills the whole of July, peaking with the grand Yamaboko float processions on July 17 and 24 and the lantern-lit yoiyama evenings before them.
In midsummer the Eizan Railway illuminates the fresh green maples of its "Maple Tunnel" between Ichihara and Ninose. Trains dim their carriage lights and slow to a crawl through the glowing leaves — the same trees that blaze red in November.
Hanabi taikai light up rivers and bays nearly every summer weekend — Sumida River in Tokyo, Nagaoka, Lake Biwa. Yukata, food stalls, and finales that go on for hours.
When the heat peaks, Japan eats cold noodles: thin somen dipped in chilled tsuyu, and hiyashi chuka — chilled ramen under shredded toppings. The "冷やし中華始めました" ("we've started hiyashi chuka") sign in restaurant windows is a summer cliché in itself.
Japan's celebrity grape — seedless, crisp, eaten skin and all — peaks in September. Shine Muscat parfaits are the autumn headline dessert, with muscat sando, tarts and daifuku close behind.
The Star Festival, when the celestial lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi meet across the Milky Way. People write wishes on tanzaku paper strips and hang them on bamboo.
Gratitude to the sea, and the unofficial start of beach season — pools and coastlines open nationwide.
Osaka's great river festival: a flotilla of torch-lit boats on the Okawa and one of Japan's top-three festival fireworks displays.
Grilled eel over rice (unadon, unaju) eaten on the midsummer "Day of the Ox" as stamina food against the heat. The date shifts each year — some years get two — and supermarkets, konbini and unagi specialists all push it hard.
Vast illuminated warrior floats parade through Aomori while haneto dancers chant "rassera!" — the wildest of Tohoku's summer festivals.
Himawari fields by the million face the August sun — the Zama fields near Tokyo plant half a million flowers for their festival.
Crisp, juicy nashi bridge summer and autumn — mostly eaten fresh and icy cold, with nashi tarts, jelly and sorbet appearing at patisseries.
The newest national holiday, for the mountains that cover most of the country. Peak Fuji-climbing season.
Tokushima's 400-year-old dance festival — "the dancers are fools, the watchers are fools, so why not dance?" Over a million people join in.
The festival of returning spirits. Families travel home to tend graves, light welcome fires, and dance bon odori under lanterns — summer's spiritual heart, and its biggest travel rush after Golden Week.
The "autumn knife fish", salt-grilled whole with grated daikon and a squeeze of sudachi. Supermarkets pile them high and izakaya flip to autumn menus — the smell of sanma smoke is the smell of fall.
The luxury autumn mushroom — pine-scented, eye-wateringly expensive, sold like treasure in depachika gift sections. Matsutake gohan and dobin-mushi (steamed in a little teapot) are the classic preparations.
Kuri season means Mont Blanc — the quintessential autumn dessert, sold everywhere from corner patisseries to depachika — plus marron parfaits, marron lattes, and traditional candied kuri-kinton.
The year's first rice harvest. Supermarkets label bags with a proud 新米 sticker, restaurants advertise the switch on their signage, and connoisseurs swear they can taste the difference.
The defining autumn–winter flavour: yaki-imo trucks roam residential streets with their drawn-out "yaki-imooo" call, konbini run imo dessert fairs, and cafés pour purple beni-imo lattes. Try daigaku-imo (candied) and the soft cake-like sweet potato pastries.
When the simmering oden pot appears at the konbini register, autumn has officially begun. Daikon, eggs, konnyaku, hanpen and atsuage soaking in dashi — the defining winter convenience food, bubbling away until spring.
Akizakura — "autumn cherry blossom" — sways in pink drifts through the early autumn. Showa Kinen Park in Tokyo plants over five million of them.
The harvest moon is honoured with pampas grass and pyramids of round tsukimi dango — while fast-food chains sell "Tsukimi Burgers", because in modern Japan anything topped with a round egg counts as moon viewing.
Higanbana flare crimson along rice-field edges right at the autumn equinox. Kinchakuda Manjushage Park (Saitama) floods an entire river-bend forest floor with five million of them.
Honouring elders — and marvelling at Japan's tens of thousands of centenarians.
The autumn counterpart to March's equinox: grave visits, ohagi sweets, and the first truly cool evenings.
Silver susuki plumes catching low autumn light are Japan's quietest seasonal spectacle. The Sengokuhara grassland in Hakone turns a whole hillside gold from late September.
Round green kochia bushes blush deep crimson almost overnight in early October. Hitachi Seaside Park (Ibaraki) — the nemophila hill of spring — repeats the trick in red with thirty thousand of them.
The autumn-colour front mirrors the sakura front in reverse, sweeping north to south and downhill from the peaks. Maple-red temple gardens in Arashiyama, the gorges of Nikko, golden city avenues — many say it rivals spring.
Rose gardens bloom a second time in autumn — smaller flowers, deeper colours, stronger scent in the cool air. Keisei Rose Garden (Chiba) runs its autumn show into early December.
Kaki hang bright orange on bare trees across the countryside, mostly eaten fresh. Strings of hoshigaki — slowly dried persimmons — hang under farmhouse eaves, and the fruit sneaks into seasonal parfaits and tarts.
Harvest peaks in October–November, led by Aomori's famous Fuji apples. Bakeries and cafés answer with apple pie, tarte Tatin, apple Danish and cinnamon-apple lattes.
Japan's dense, sweet pumpkin stars in autumn menus as kabocha-no-nimono (gently simmered). Eating it on the winter solstice (Toji, around December 21–22) is the traditional charm against catching colds.
Born from the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. Schools nationwide hold undokai sports festivals around this time.
Sazanka carry the flower year through the cold months, scattering their petals one by one where true camellias drop whole. Kameido Central Park in Tokyo blooms from late October into December.
Less trick-or-treating, more costume spectacle — Shibuya's street crowds became so big the city now actively reroutes them. Konbini go full pumpkin.
Art, scholarship and culture: museums hold free-entry days and the emperor bestows the Order of Culture. Statistically one of the year's sunniest days.
The imperial flower gets its own exhibition season: meticulously trained kiku in cascades, domes and single giant blooms. The Chrysanthemum Exhibition at Shinjuku Gyoen in Tokyo is the grandest, in early–mid November.
The kotatsu fruit: a bowl of easy-peeling mandarins on the heated table is the picture of Japanese winter at home. Look for whole-mikan jelly, mikan daifuku and konbini mikan desserts through the season.
The aromatic winter citrus — used for fragrance rather than eaten fresh. Yuzu honey tea and hot yuzu-cha warm the season, with yuzu sorbet, cheesecake and mochi alongside. Its December peak coincides with the winter-solstice custom of the yuzu bath (yuzu-yu).
The defining winter meal: a bubbling hot pot at the centre of the table. Shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, Hakata mizutaki, sumo-sized chanko, kimchi-nabe, motsu-nabe — households rotate them all winter, and seasonal nabe restaurants open just for it.
Winter's table along the Sea of Japan: kani season opens in early November, and fugu — expertly licensed — stars in Shimonoseki and Osaka.
Millions of LEDs turn parks, gardens and station fronts into light shows — Nabana no Sato, Marunouchi, Kobe Luminarie. Many run until Christmas, some all winter.
Children aged seven, five and three visit shrines in miniature kimono for blessings, clutching bags of chitose-ame "thousand-year candy".
Golden ginkgo tunnels at Meiji Jingu Gaien and Osaka's Midosuji — the late, luminous coda to autumn colour.
Descended from the imperial harvest rite of Niiname-sai — now a day to thank workers, and the year's final national holiday.
Greenhouse ichigo run all winter and peak in February–March: Christmas shortcake starts the rush, then ichigo daifuku, strawberry sando in fluffy milk bread, parfaits, tarts, konbini strawberry fairs and seasonal Frappuccinos carry it to May.
Wild daffodils bloom against the winter sea — the Edzuki Suisen Road in Chiba winds through millions of them from mid-December.
A romantic date night rather than a family holiday — couples book dinners, everyone eats strawberry shortcake, and KFC needs reservations weeks ahead.
Robai — "wax plum" — opens translucent yellow flowers on bare branches in the coldest weeks, with a perfume far bigger than the bloom. The Hodosan Wintersweet Garden (Saitama) scents a whole mountaintop.
Fresh mochi fills supermarkets from mid-December, ready for zoni — the New Year soup whose recipe is a regional identity card. Pounded rice cake is the taste of the turning year.
"Year-crossing soba", eaten before midnight on New Year's Eve — the long noodles stand for a long life. Every soba shop and konbini in the country sells it on December 31.
New Year's Eve: Kohaku on TV, then temple bells ring 108 times at midnight to clear the year's worldly desires. The year closes — and begins again.
The bells of Ōmisoka fade, the first shrine queues form, and the strawberries are already in season. Every year in Japan is a circle.
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