Kawasaki Racecourse

Tucked into the flatlands near Kawasaki's waterfront, Kawasaki Racecourse is one of the Tokyo area's most approachable introductions to Japanese horse racing. This is chiho keiba, regional racing run by local government rather than the national JRA circuit, and it has a character all its own: a relaxed crowd, a park in the middle of the track, and an atmosphere that leans more festival than high-stakes gamble. Meets run both in daylight and under floodlights, and for newcomers, especially families, it makes for a surprisingly easy day or evening out.

The course opened in 1950 and is run by the Kanagawa Prefecture racing association, forming part of the Minami-Kanto public racing circuit alongside Oi, Funabashi, and Urawa. It hosts two of Japan's premier dirt races, the Jpn 1 Kawasaki Kinen and the Zen-Nippon Nisai Yushun, but most of the calendar is everyday racing, which is exactly what makes it unintimidating to drop in on. The track is a left-handed dirt oval of 1,200 metres, tight enough that the racing feels close and fast from almost anywhere you stand.

What really sets Kawasaki apart is the infield. It's essentially a public park, with a large lawn where you can picnic while the racing goes on, plus a nursing room and children's toilets. There's a genuinely enormous screen, the Kawasaki Dream Vision, once recognised by Guinness World Records, and original horse-themed play structures that families turn up for in their own right. It's as much a day out with the kids as a day at the races.

Food is a big part of the appeal too. The racecourse has built a real reputation for its dining, from a retro alley done up in mid-century Showa style to a food court and a string of stalls serving motsuni stew, croquettes, and Chinese and Japanese dishes – alongside the track's famously fiery yakisoba and a couple of original craft beers brewed for the venue. Many visitors come as much for the eating as the racing.

Betting, if you choose to try it, is simple to get started with. Tickets can be bought for as little as ¥100, the basic bet types are easy to grasp without prior knowledge, and self-service machines are dotted around the grounds. You don't need to wager large sums – or anything at all – to enjoy yourself.